Day 3 of Milan Fashion Week is really as we get to see several iconic labels putting up their collection.
- EMPORIO ARMANI
- JOHN RICHMOND
- Z ZEGNA
- UMIT BENAN
The stately parade of male couples in the Emporio Armani show suggested a high-fashion endorsement of civil partnerships. Indeed, union was the collection’s foundation, most obviously in a marriage of tailoring and athletics that came through in the essential physicality of the presentation. – Tim Blanks.
Clement Chabernaud opened the show in a leaf green suit and closed it in a silky matte black tux. The collection then peaked in a blaze of crimson and orange (particularly a double-breasted jacket in raffia and a half-belted canvas coat that had the color intensity that comes from overdyeing), it smoothed into a pleasurable buzz of blues that brought to mind a Mediterranean summer.
The waves of color that determined the show’s rhythm flowed from blue via red to white, symbolizing, according to Kean, “the attainment of a state of serenity and light.” And, in the vein of the Eastern philosophy that rhythm so clearly referenced, the collection was a return to paisley’s Kashmiri roots. Rather than the masculine hyper-tailoring that has been a traditional house signature, there were soft, flowing pieces that were much more androgynous. – Tim Blanks.
“The silhouette is about leisure, about being on holiday, free from the restraints of corporate identity,” said Paul Surridge, the brand creative designer, “Looking at sportswear to create an ideal utopia, a holiday feeling.”