The Milan Men’s Fashion Week kicked off on Saturday, 23 June, with a lineup of a few heavyweight designers and all eyes are on these brands for the upcoming trend for the spring summer season next year. The 12 designers who presented their collections included:
- Jil Sander,
- Ermenegildo Zegna,
- Costume National Homme,
- Dolce & Gabbana,
- Frankie Morello,
- Burberry Prorsum
- LEs Hommes
- John Varvatos
- Neil Barrett
- Carlo Pignatelli
Highlights : Jil Sander
Jil Sander return after seven years to the label that bears her name, with a collection that projects “Comfort, fashion and class”. She made bold fashion statement with colors and prints, from knitwear and gauzy tees, with constructivist color-blocking and patterning inspired by artists Blinky Palermo and Robert Mangold, to cabans in buttery yellow and vivid cobalt blue, to a coat and shirt in a matching honeycomb pattern.
The collection sees the brand using a lot of silk, with Anna Zega calling it “The cashmere of summer”. The fabric was mixed into perforated knits, shining in shantung suiting, wafting in shirts printed with tropical banana or mango leaves. To counteract some of the floatiness, the silhouette was sharper: tapered, high-waist pants with stitched pleats, high-fastening, wide-lapel jackets with strong shoulders, all in shades of tobacco, navy, burgundy, and cream.
Dolce & Gabanna
The power designer duo presented a somewhat “unexpected” show with an almost full cast of “non-models”. As if to pay tribute to their Sically roots, they brought in a ‘village’ of boys, teens and men, mixed with an occasions model to showcase their collection. The show seems to have quickly received mixed reviews online with some calling it ‘messy’ while others hailed it a “brilliant” presentation. Like it or hate it, this is still Dolce & Gabbana, and I believe there will be lots of coverage on it.
Gone are the rain for Burberry this season. Instead, we see Christopher Bailey injecting lots of eye-popping metallics to repel the never-ending deluge. Surely one can only look at a soberly toned, leanly tailored suit so many times before surrendering to the desire to juice it with a shirt in an ice-blue metallic silk, as cleverly done by Christopher. Or to add to that a fuchsia-shaded foil trench and a metallic leather blousons to at closed the show I would start stocking up on my ‘metallics’ from now.
The Versace collection saw Donatella demonstrating the need for the youth of today to be gladiators of their rights. As Tim Blanks puts it, the show was “Part Rocky, part Elvis, part Mr. T,” from shin high gladiators with thick metallic belts to colorful prints on sexy bicep bulging models, all set to the music of “We Will Rock You”. How camp is that.